Weekend Sewing with Heather Ross
I have been sewing up a storm and it's all Heather Ross's fault. Weekend Sewing is a fantastic book. Not only are there many clothing patterns included, there are lots of small, quick projects, too. I am completely impressed by Heather's attention to detail in her directions and illustrations. Additionally, the clothes fit the sizes they say they should. That makes sewing clothes for myself so much more fun. I was lucky to have the chance to share my finished projects with Heather and asked her some questions about these designs.
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Erin: Hi,Heather! I am so excited that you arehere today. Your new book, WeekendSewing, is fantastic! When I saw theproject photos on Melanie Falick’s blog a few months ago, I couldn’t wait toget my hands on it. Now that it’s beenout for a few weeks, I can’t get my fill of sewing from it. Immediately, I knew that I wanted to make thesummer blouse. It looks like a greatbetween-season wardrobe staple or something you would throw on after an entireday at the beach. What was going throughyour mind when you designed this shirt?
Heather: I started with a very basic bodice patternwith soft darts and a nice high flattering neckline, which is where you shouldalways start when designing a dress or blouse. I wanted to introduce sewers to an inset sleeve in a way that madesense, and I wanted to make it a slightly shaped. I love the way that vintagetunics from the sixties and seventies are more fitted around the shoulders andchest and upper arm but then have a full, relaxed fit around the waist.Remember the way that Lily Pulitzer dresses and tunics fit? With a high, prettyneckline and and shaping through the chest? Marimekko was the same way, theyboth knew how to get the best shape from crisp woven cottons. It’s a shape thatis so much more flattering than a blouse that is baggy everywhere, but just ascomfortable.
With some addedlength and no sleeves, this pattern will actually make a lovely littlesleeveless shift! I added some photos below of one of my versions of thisproject. I made a little dress out of some of the fabrics from my Mendocinoline, with an appliqued contrasting panel. This is just the summer blouse, butwith armhole facings instead of sleeves and extended to fit me through thehips. This is what I mean about how great a simple bodice is: you can make itinto anything!
Erin: Thenext project I made were the Pajama Pants for Everyone. Well, actually, I adjusted the pattern tomake pajama shorts for Jane and Kate. Ithink having this pattern on hand is going to come in handy. I can see myself sitting down and making themassembly line style as gifts for my nephews. Or a whole winter’s worth for the girls. Are your clothing designs influenced byitems you already own or ones you would like to have or something elseentirely?
Erin: One thing I love about your book is that there are so many clothespatterns in it. I haven’t had muchsuccess sewing garments for myself in the past. No longer! I think you have me ona selfish sewing roll! Did you startwriting the book with clothing in mind, or did the projects fall into place asyou went along?
Heather: I knew from the very beginning that Iwanted Weekend Sewing to be the book that propelled sewers from the “straightlines” stage of tote bags and pillow covers to actual garments. I had a visionof someone completing a dress or blouse and then saying “So THATS how you doit, I thought it was so much more complicated!” I focussed on pieces that didnot require complicated steps or closures and hoped for the best. I also wantedthe projects to be grown up, wearable styles that were meant a real, albeitcasual, lifestyle: Things you would actually make more than once, things youwould wear.
Erin: Ireally liked the wide straps and square neckline of the trapeze sundress, but Ididn’t think I would wear it as a dress. So I cut 12” off of the bottom and made a blouse. And I adore it! It’s sure to be a summer staple for me. I like that this, and other patterns, can bechanged or adjusted to make them entirely different. Was that intentional on your part or just ahappy accident?
I should point outthat for those of us who are more curvy, moving those pleats into the center ofthe blouse will slim down the silhouette and create a less dramatic “trapezeshape”.
You look so cute init!
There are so many patterns for different bags out there, but I reallylike the shape and size of the everyday tote. I love that it can fold up nice and flat, but still has good style. Even though I sewed my handles wrong (oops!), the fact that they are folded and then openflat makes them incredibly comfortable. Wheredid you come up with that idea?
Heather: I should say here that I believe that thereis a typo in this pattern: I think it should call for 1 yard of each fabric,not 1/2 yard. My apologies.
This bag is mypersonal Farmers Market bag. I wanted one that would hold everything from fresheggs to big bags of apples and berries while still allowing for a huge bouquetof flowers to ride on top. And yes, I love how it stuffs into nothingness too,and I can toss it n the washer. I really love how yours looks with thinnerstraps. I like wide comfy straps because I always put too much weight in mybags, but its nice to see that it works both ways. I love what you did with thepocket, using just a little bit of the horses over the floral lining. Thepockets are so key. I am forever losing my phone and my keys inside every bag,so can’t ever skip this step.
Erin: The pocket is key for me, too! I also purposely chose the horse fabric because I knew I would be able to spot that dark green easily against the white lining. So far, it's working great.
Imade the yard sale wrap skirt in an afternoon. I remember having a skirt similar to this when I was a child. It was one of the most comfortable things Iowned. My new one is no different. I think you have a knack for designingpractical yet stylish clothing.
Heather: This skirt is basedon a wonderful old wrap skirt that wandered around in my family for abouttwenty years. The wrap skirt, made from printed indian cotton, was such anubiquitous style in the 70’s, remember? I have extremely fond memories ofsomeone, maybe an aunt, holding hers up poolside around my cousin as shechanged into her swimsuit, like a little changing room. I updated the hemlinebecause I can’t stand that “thick calf” length, but otherwise its pretty trueto form. This is, without a doubt, the most wearable style in the book. Itsalso the most versatile, because you can make it as big or as full as you wantby adding more panels. I worked for a long time on the shape of the panels, Iwanted them to create just the right amount of drape so that it would be flatagainst the tummy and hips and then melt into a big swoopy hem. It’s tough todo this without making something that looks like a poodle skirt, but I am happyto say that i think I nailed it here. I would also suggest adding a piece ofinterfacing to the center front waistband, the result will be a nipped-in waistand flat tummy. I’m getting reports that people are having to add an additionalpanel to this style in order for it to fully cover their backsides. Sorry,ladies!
Erin: I was happy I had some extra fabric on hand because I did add an extra panel to my skirt, too. People might want to remember that if they are purchasing fabric for this skirt.
After the success with the wrap skirt, Iwent ahead and made the all weekend sundress. I didn’t have high hopes for it – I just wasn’t sure how if it wouldflatter me or not. Guess what? I like it. I still need to add the spaghetti straps, but otherwise it’s ready towear. I can see myself throwing thisover a swim suit as a glamorous cover-up. I had forgotten how much fun elastic thread is, too. So cool! A good number of projects in Weekend Sewing use elastic thread. Why do you like it so much?
Heather: I did use it a lot, didn’t I!
The kimono dress and all weekend sundress are great examplesof why I did this. By using stretchy rows of elastic thread to join the bodiceand skirt on both of these styles, I brought in the waist with lovely evengathers so that it would fit the wearer perfectly without requiring a zipper orother closure. I wanted this stuff to fit, and elastic gathers really make thatpossible! Also, I really wanted everyone to see how easy it is to sew withelastic thread, and how it can be employed to make very cool looking, greatfitting garments without a lot of work.
Your rows of elasticized stitching look so even andperfect!!!
Erin: Thanks - I am really proud of how that dress came together. Next up for me: the townbag. First I need to find the rightpiece of leather and then work up the courage to actually sew with it. I think that if my success with these otherprojects is any indication, it’ll be a breeze.
Erin: That’s a great idea – I can just see it in asoft pastel color. Once again, you’vegot my mind spinning.
Thanks so much, Heather.
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OK - that was so much fun. Heather and the nice folks at STC Craft are giving away a copy of Weekend Sewing to one lucky reader. Comment on this post before 12:00 noon EST, Wednesday, March 18th for a chance. Also, don't forget about the design challenge Heather is having on her blog.
Now I am going to clean up my mess and then take a nap. Happy St. Patrick's Day!