Back in July, I started making a sleeveless Tova for myself. I was really excited to use the gorgeous green Nani Iro fabric I picked up at Purl in June. I knew the Tova fit me – I wore the Liberty one a bunch last winter and spring. And based on my success making sleeveless Tovas for the girls, I thought this was a no-brainer.
I was wrong.
There is something off with the fit on me. The gaping under the arms and the too large shoulders totally surprised me when I tried it on. I think the problem has to do with the fact that I had to make an XL to fit through the bust, when a L is just slightly tight but fits me under the arms and through the shoulders. To say I'm bummed is an understatement – I love this pattern . And I love this fabric, too. It was expensive so I don't want it to sit unworn in my closet. But what to do? I'm kind of at a loss. Do I try to take it in under the arms? Or do I just try to use the fabric in some other way?
All that said, I'm glad I attempted it. I'll take it as a teachable moment….muslin, muslin, muslin!
i say try to take it in! it looks great other than the armholes. if it still doesn’t work, then you can repurpose the fabric.
Do you have enough left to just add sleeves?? Even 3/4 length ones could help – then you wouldn’t notice the underarm part! I might scoop out the neck a bit more if you can, too? if you show a little skin there the flowiness might look totally fine! good luck.
I’m finishing an xl sleeveless tova today. I had to add a bust dart. I also made the shoulders narrower. I think the bust dart took that gap out of my armhole and I didn’t scoop anything out of that like I did the shoulder. I say take it in – it’s too pretty not to be worn.
Can you redo the armholes?? It really looks like its almost there, and I love that fabric on you!
I love that fabric. Can you wear a more fitted tank top underneath? Something that would come further up to your armpits?
It’s too pretty not to fix, Erin!
I always have this trouble as I have a large bust (and narrow shoulders) and often make and armhole dart (from the armhole to 2″ from the bust point) in ready made clothes or you can do it on a paper pattern before cutting into the material by cutting a split where an underarm dart should go and folding out a dart on the armhole of the paper pattern. This opens up an underarm dart and makes the finished garment fit a lot better around the bust.
If you do this in a garment with sleeves you will have to lower the under arm line to replace the sleeve or lower the facing on a sleeveless garment.
On your sleeveless top, you will need to replace (redraft) the armhole facings with a narrower shoulder and lower underarm to make it fit you better.
I’m so sorry it didn’t turn out, but I’m kind of glad someone else shares my sizing problem with the Tova. I’ve made 2 so far (size L, which had exactly the same problems you experienced: no ease in the shoulders/bust) and an XL (which is a little too blousy for my taste).
I’ve heard there is a tutorial out there (?) that gives instructions for re-sizing the bust area in this pattern? I’m not an expert seamstress, although I do know what I’m doing….so instructions would be so helpful in this area!
ps: love the fabric….! 🙂
I often have this trouble with purchased tops — sometimes they are just too perfect in every other way to pass by. A small dart works wonders.
It’s so close! I love that fabric. Unfortunately I have no suggestions for fixes. The alterations are what always trip me up in garment sewing.
the fabric is beautiful and i have total confidence that you can fix the fit right up. xo.
I would definitely take it in at the underarm and bring in the shoulders slightly. The armhole can be finished with bias binding and would take care of the stretching of the armhole. I haven’t worked with the Nano Iro gauze but I imagine it is a bit stretchy. You would want to ease the armhole onto the binding so the armhole shrinks in a bit.
It is such a lovely top and totally worth the effort to fix!!!
: )
thanks, julia! i'm going to try!
i have 1 yard left which i don't think is enough for sleeves (i railroaded the fabric to begin with). the neckline opens quite a bit – i just have it closed so you could really see the shoulders. i guess i could always add the collar, too.
i hadn't thought about adding a bust dart, but i will definitely consider that next time!
i'm going to try redoing the armholes. and maybe taking in the seam at the underarm. i really want this to work!
i know! i'm going to try! thanks, k.
thanks for the info! i've got a lot to learn!
sounds like i'm in good company! 😉
i'm definitely going to try to fix it, charise. both the arm and the neck are finished with bias, which i did in order to avoid stretching so i don't think that is the issue. fingers crossed i can figure it out!
That fabric is so beautiful! I would put sleeves in it. Sometimes putting something away for a week or so helps me get fresh perspective. But don’t give up on it!
Best of luck with your fix (and I do think it’s fixable). There’s some great advice in the comments already so I don’t have much to add besides well wishes! May your inner tailor be with you!
I have no words of fixing wisdom, but you should try, because that is seriously gorgeous fabric.
can you get a consult with amh or liesl?? 🙂 i have no idea, but i know there is an answer and that fabric is just perfect for you! (i love it, too!)
Such beautiful fabric! I’m glad you’re going to try to fix it. I don’t sew clothes and barely sew slipcovers, clothes are so intimidating! With slipcovers, pillows, etc I’ve taken to stapling rather than basting, pretty easy to pull out with staple remover and it helps in getting things lined up nicely. I’m guessing your fabric is too fine to risk the stapling shortcut for testing various darts and adjustments. I hope you’ll show a post on how you go about adjusting things.
Time to get out that seam ripper! I hope you make time for it, the color is perfect on you and it sounds like everyone (including me) can’t wait for you to wear it.
Can you take a dart in the center back from the neckline down about 5 or 6 inches? That’s how I fixed something my friend made that was too big in similar ways…
Here is a sleeveless one that the shoulders were narrowed:
http://fussycut.blogspot.ca/2012/06/feathery-tova.html
Perhaps by doing this … and then adding a bust dart, you will have your fix!
i would just wear a tissue tee type long sleeve underneath, and rock it out all winter that way. it’s not very noticeable unless you point it out. and too big is way better than too small! but i know about perfection in sewing, so i get the dilemma here. but really, try long sleeves under neath. i am so into layering lately. tank on top of long sleeve is my new fave.
Many have suggested and I agree…wear a tank top underneath so modesty isn’t an issue.
Luckily I tried a tova on before I bought the pattern. I too have the bust issue and shirts like that always are either too tight through the bust/shoulders or too flowy if I size up….making me look a bit preggo–which I really don’t need at 46! The picture looks great though, great color on you and great sewing too–it looks like you’ll just need a little fix to make it work. It also might look a bit better after washing (though I”m sure you washed before sewing, sometimes it does get a bit smaller again afterwards. Can’t wait to see your solution!
I would have to agree that adjusting the shoulders and adding darts is the solution. I hope I’m not insulting you by suggesting you take it to a local family-owned tailor to do the work–that way you can learn a few tricks from them and save the fabric from added stress. Good luck–it is so very close to being a total knock out piece for you!
Wear it in cooler weather with a long sleeved shirt under it, that the arm holes should be perfect!
Erin,
First, I have this fabric!!! Uncut, one yard, fingers twitching. But it puzzles me a bit, because it’s almost two fabrics. I adore Nani Iro, and have sewn up one of her prints before, and had trouble then, due to the gauzy/doubled up/layered thing going on. Scared me off a bit. And it adds some elasticity. Wondering if that contributed, here…
Second, I’ve been meaning to shoot you a(nother) note of thanks for a fabulous camera strap. My camera died for the third time yesterday, and as I sat there, grieving, I couldn’t help but laugh. Your strap has held up through three (!) camera repairs, and is still going as strong as the day it arrived. Man, I love that thing. So thanks.
Cheers,
M
Hi Erin…I would try to reshape the armholes and shoulder width according to the tova that fit you. I sometimes have the same issue with hips and waist…what I do is try to use the smaller fit, but then add to bust (or hips i my case) as needed.
Going the other way and sizing down the shoulders is a little harder. 🙁 It is a beautiful fabric, I’m sure you’ll make it work somehow.
Have you seen the discussions here: http://www.flickr.com/groups/wikstenpatterns/discuss/72157630578610838/
I made my first Tova at the beginning of the summer, but abandoned it for similar reasons. I think I’ll give it another go, this time armed with more info. Hope yours works out, the Nani Iro fabric is so pretty!
More suggestions here: http://www.flickr.com/groups/wikstenpatterns/discuss/72157625960508408/ with a diagram!
I just had some problems with my Tova too. I’m a bit relieved to hear I’m not the only one, though I’m sorry for your woes. I think your pattern placement is adorable. Even if you’re not pleased, I think it is lovely.
if i were you, i would just wear it with a little cardigan over it! the fabric is so pretty and you did a great job on it! lots of times if i’m unhappy with the way something came out, i just wait a couple of days and look at it again, and it usually seems ok. anyway, wear it-it’s great!!
That is darling! (and so are you….I just read your biography 🙂
sorry if this is repeat info – but here are some links on how to tailor the pattern pieces for a better fit. http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/12/helpful-links-for-bust-alterations.html
beautiful fabric!