I've had my eyes on this dress by Tif, aka Dottie Angel, ever since she announced that it would be available as a pattern. It's just so dang cute! And truly, everything that lady puts her hands to is adorable, but this is the one thing I just had to make. I am so glad I did because the dress is adorable and flattering and super easy to wear! Well done, Tif!
Once the release date was announced, I started popping by my JoAnn's every few days to see if they had added the new patterns to those huge metal drawers. On the fourth try, it was there – Simplicity 1080! I decided to use a lightweight navy and white remnant that I picked up at Imogene and Willie while in Nashville a couple of weekends ago. At first I thought it was cotton, but now I am convinced it is linen or a cotton-linen blend. Regardless, at $25 for 5 yards, I figured I could jump in and skip the muslin. (Foreshadowing!)
For the pockets, it had to be Liberty. I am a card carrying member (ok, there is no card, but there should be!) of the Westwood Acres Liberty of London club and receive 10 (!) fat eighths of Liberty of London Tana Lawn in my mailbox each and every month. A quick consult of the pocket pattern pieces and my suspicions were confirmed: I could get two pockets out of one fat eighth. (NOTE: These are larger than quilting cotton fat eighths as Liberty is 55" wide. If you use quilting cotton, you will need more yardage.) To determine my size, I used the finished measurements listed on the pattern envelope, in particular the bust measurement. With my body measurements, I am just between M and L. With all the ease in the pattern, I knew a M would fit. I cut 2 1/2 yards + 4 inches (for shrinkage) off of my remnant and washed it. After everything was cut, there was 4" left. If you are buying fabric, I'd recommend an extra quarter yard for good measure.
The cutting was straightforward. I used my rotary cutter and ruler for the pocket tops and ties instead of the pattern pieces. For me, this is just a more accurate method. Do what works for you! Take time to transfer all the marking accurately. So, so important! I had to go back and mark a few things I missed on the first go.
The sewing starts with stay-stitching the neck edges 1/2" from the raw edge. Ok…standard operating procedure except that 1/2" sounded like a lot to me. Still I did it. Fast forward many steps to when the neckline is finished with bias that you stitch 3/8" from the edge and then press an additional 1/8" towards the wrong side. While I am a pretty decent seamstress, this just proved to be a problem for me. I have never stay-stitched outside a seam allowance before even on the ones finished with bias tape! I had to take out small amounts (1/2" or so) of visible stitching from the right side of the dress when all was said and done. Next time, I will stay-stitch at 1/4" from the raw edge so the stay stitching is covered by the bias.
The pocket construction went without a hitch. It is super important to press the bias in the shape of the pocket as instructed. I went even further and pressed it with the pockets' raw edges in the bias before basting. It made the actually application of the pockets seamless.
The tucks were easy to sew once I wrapped my head around exactly what I was supposed to do and exactly how the ties worked into them! The illustrations are not that comprehensive so it took some instagram searching to see what the actual finished dressed looks like. Once I had that figured out, they came together easily. BUT! BUT! This is the part where I wish I would have made a MUSLIN. I am long in the torso and almost always have to lengthen dresses. There are no notes in the pattern instructions or lengthening/shortening lines on the pattern pieces so I just went with the pintucks as marked. MISTAKE!!! While I think that the final dress fits fine, I KNOW it would fit a whole lot better if those tucks were about 1" lower on my torso. In retrospect, it would have been good to baste the side seams at this point to check the tuck placement. Live and learn.
The shoulder seams are sewn at 3/8", then trimmed to 1/8" and covered with bias tape. Actually, all the interior raw edges, neck line, armholes, hem, etc. are all covered with bias or have French seams. I am sure that this makes a beautiful garment. Seems like a lot of extra steps to me for something only I will see. Just my preference, though. Next time, I'm going to sew the shoulders at 3/8" and then serge or overlock the seams and call it a day.
The way the sleeves are sewn is just weird. There, I said it. I wish the pattern pieces were cut so you could line up the bias and the raw edge OR that the pattern pieces were marked with a sewing line and a folding line. Alas, they are not. It just seems overly difficult for something that should be straightforward. Oh well. It could be me – I did make my own bias instead of buying it. Regardless, I fully admit to winging it a bit and I think it worked ok. I do wish the sleeves didn't wing out so much at the tips of the shoulders, but then I looked at the pattern envelope and some of the samples do that a little, too.
The side seams are French seams so straightforward, or at least they should be… There is no consistent seam allowance in the pattern. I sewed the 1/4" as indicated, pressed the seam open (not indicated), flipped the garment, pressed the seam flat, and sewed to enclose the seam. I sewed a scant 3/8" to make sure I got everything enclosed and this was a total GUESS on my part as the pattern instructions do not tell you an exact measurement. When I do it again, I would trim the 1/4" seam to 1/8" and then sew the second seam at 1/4" for a very pretty French seam.
The hem…. By this point, I'd just about had it with bias tape. It's a lovely finish, but I just folded and pressed 1/2" and then folded again by 3/4" and sewed the hem down. Done and so so happy with the finished product!
Final thoughts: I think it is a great dress, one that I will wear again and again. I just wish that it was more straightforward in the sewing department. There is just too much bias tape for my taste. I came away knowing that I can make some subtle changes in the construction without taking anything away from the style of the dress. And this is my experience – I am not an expert by any means. I'm sharing my thoughts in the event that they may be helpful to someone else. I'll answer questions in the comments, so if you have any, fire away!
I am so tempted by that Liberty club!!
You’re adorable all the time, but especially so in a newly home made dress.
Yours turned out very nice! I’ve been reading up on this pattern and it everyone says the same things about the way the sleeves are done. Unfortunately all these issues seem like typical issues for the larger pattern makers. I wonder if the designer had any say in it at all since this is her first pattern with them. I’d be bummed knowing my name was on a project that people are having problems sewing. It’s a lovely dress and I’ll definitely make one but I’ll probably not follow the instructions much.
You are adorable. And I wish I had the time and knowledge to make one for myself! xo
absolutely adorable. and so are you!
and just so you know… the little bit of bias i see in the sleeve is just perfect. see. aren’t ya glad for all that bias now? 🙂
xx
love it, erin –
i have this in my queue to make also because it looks like a great pattern for a casual housedress.
Thank you for all the tips
So cute – love the fabric choices.
Just bought this pattern last weekend, and it was net in my line of things to sew, so I’m glad to know what to watch out for.
Glad You wrote this review. I had planned to make this dress but now I’m thinking it looks like a pretty simple dress made difficult. Oh well!
Thank you for writing this! I just came home with the pattern and took some notes from your post for when I go to make it!
Working on mine right now and had to take a break to search out other sewists who have made this too. Yours turned out so cute and I think the tucks right under the bust line looks very good on you. I’ve got very little bust line so am hoping this will give the illusion of a little more. 😉 And yes, the armhole construction is batty. Now that I understand what is supposed to be happening I’m just going to mark up my own pattern and create those cut lines. The biggest mistake I made was meaning to cut all the pieces to create the shorter top but instead cut the correct back and the front from the dress that has the lower band. Yikes, now the front is half an inch too short so I think I have to improvise and create a narrow band. The main fabric I’m using is some vintage kettle cloth so it already has too much body and I’ve already eliminated the french seams at the side and plan to eliminate the bias in the hem. Thanks so much for posting your experiences with this pattern. Your frock turned out awesomely peachy.
Really helpful blog post you made there! I’m just about to give this pattern a go but as a novice sewer there seems to be an awful lot of bias tape and confusing instructions. Reading how you did it has helped immensely. Also a few people have noted some of the same issues you had so I’ll try to sort them on my test run. I think your finished dress looks great. Love the Liberty pockets.
Your dress turned out great! I love the liberty pockets and liberty fabric in general. Can you imagine having a full dress done in Liberty fabric?! Would be awesome, yet expensive!! I’m very much in agreement with you on the odd parts of the pattern that don’t make sense…sleeves especially! They just do not line up well with the side seams. Like you, I made it work, but there is some extra bulk in the inside sleeve area that I would prefer not be there. I did French seams on the shoulders…seemed easier to me than bias tape. I may try overlocking seams next time as your suggested. Oh and I had the exact same problem with the stay stitching! I wonder if anyone at the company sews these patterns up to see how confusing or wrong they can be? I would be somewhat disappointed if I was tif/Dottie with Simplicity’s execution of the pattern. Anyway, it still is a lovely dress in the end and a workable pattern. I plan to make more! You can see my frock on Instagram at @cottage_industry 🙂 Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the review ! ! I just “found” this pattern, and to my dismay, it was pretty much sold out in a lot of places. Undaunted, I did find a source for it.
Questions: #1 – do you think I could create a “facing” for the neckline? #2 – If I faced the neckline and used a cotton contrasting bias other places, could it possibly work in a fine, thin wale corduroy? Faux suede? Neither are recommended on the pattern, but I would love to pop it over a T-neck and wear in late fall….. #3 – Denim – lightweight? I am actually pondering a lightweight denim with some sort of contrasting print for the pockets & bias as my first attempt. Something a bit heavier than chambray… You thoughts? THANK YOU
Hi Nan! Yes, you could face the neckline and you could still use bias in other places. A nice, fine wale corduroy with drape would be lovely! I'm not sure about a faux suede or a denim – they might not have enough drape. I would recommend giving it a go in a recommended fabric and then seeing what other fabrics you think could work. Hope that helps! Erin
Thanks for your review. I made the dress last week and also found that the tucks were 1 – 1 1/2 inches too high. I agree that the sleeves are weird. I went ahead and sewed them as instructed this time, but will do it differently next time. I also found the neckline too low. I raised it some and still did not have trouble getting it over my head. I don’t like spending too much time making muslins so what I quite often do is use a thrifted men’s shirt for something like this. If it doesn’t work out I’ve wasted no more than $2, but if it does I have something to wear.
I agree with everything Erin writes as well as all the above comments.
The dress is darling, design features are fun…but
Really weird and tricky sleeve construction.
particularly the sew bias so far in from the edge,
yet tapering it to nothing, etc., trim, turn, sew with the bias tape.
I did it once and will cut facings next time.
Ditto for the neckline.
I have been sewing for 50 years and never struggled so much with
sleeve “hem”. 🙂
Too much bias tape for me, also. Bias tape for the hem? I think not.
Yet I will still make at least 2 or 3 more, with the same tweeks as Erin
I have been reading up on this pattern and others who have made it. I did some reading before and now after finishing the frock. One thing I did when sewing the binding on the neck line and sleves, was to iron the binding after sewing it on. I ironed it open, then folded it under and ironed again. Then, after sewing it down, I ironed, sewed another seam along the other side of the binding, and ironed a final time. This gave me the two rows of seams. It is a lot of ironing, but I knew it would come together better this way, and it did. I don’t have any problem with my sleves turning out where the binding is sewn on. Over all, I love this pattern and the end result. There will be several in my closet because the fit works well on my pear shaped body.
I’m in the midst of sewing one for myself, and am glad to find your review and comments. I agree with an earlier commenter – the high waist looks well on you!
Hi there,
Just read your take on this dress, I have just finished View B and everything went smoothly until the armholes I couldn’t for the life of me phathom simplicity’s method I did it but they have let the quality of finished tunic down, also I am between M and L so did the M but next time I do view A or C I will do a Medium but do the dress a tad bit wider and an inch longer between the tuck line because even though it fit just below my bust I felt I could have had it inch lower. On the sleeve issue someone on Pintrest has hacked that a bit and it made sense to do that I will go back on pointers and see what they did and do it that way! I didn’t french seam or bind any seams because thank the lord I had an overlocker and I embroidered the bottom hem which looked cute. You look good in your dress it really suits you!
Holy Moly – this looks waaaay more involved than I thought. I’m going to have my computer open to this page so I can follow along with your tips and tricks. I might use lace ribbon trim in place of the bias tape for a softer feel. Thanks for posting this!
It looks adorable!! You should sell them in your shop!
I followed the directions, but made my own bias. I love the dress because it looks so Depression era apronish, something pretty I can enjoy wearing at home to work in. The instructions were a little bit different, but really the only issue I had was at the side seam where it finishes at the arm hole. I found the instructions just left me hanging on where to end the seam and left me with an unprofessional finish. I will check out the Pinterest site that mentions a hack as stated in the post above by Melanie. I also lengthened my dress with one more six inch contrasting band to give it a midi length. I turned up half of that for a nice deep hem, which I will do by hand. All in all I love it, especially the fabric I used, but will feel free to wing it with standard dressmaking techniques next time to get the same result, but easier!
I’ve just finished making this dress, once I stopped reading the pattern I felt much better. I didn’t bother with stay stitching the neck but created a facing in the same fabric and iron on interfacing, stitched it to the neck and it’s nice and flat without any bias tape. Also I just rolled the sleeve edges and hemmed it rather than attaching bias binding, they look fine. I have a real issue with creating more work for myself so I’ve avoided it! I didn’t French seam and all my other seams were just overlock stitch and trimmed. The pockets look much smaller than the packet photo and I’ve made it exactly from the pattern so I’m going to change them for sure. I followed everyone’s advice and made the pleats lower. It looks much better as I have a big bust! Lovely little dress but definitely use your instinct,